Why Turkey!?

One of the questions we get asked a lot is: “Why Turkey?!” 

Many people who live on their boats in hurricane prone areas, choose to leave the area during hurricane season. We are no exception. So, we left our boat in a safe place in Mexico and came to our house in Turkey. Many people ask us how we landed on Turkey as our “hurricane hole”? So, here’s the story:

It all started at Portland State University – Jodi’s alma mater – in 1987. I joined an organization called AIESEC – a global organization, established in 1948, after WWII, where seven young people in seven countries had a dream of building a cross-cultural understanding across nations. They hoped to change the world, one person and one international internship at a time. Today, they operate in more than 125 countries and territories, linking business students with temporary exchange jobs.

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International friends: Karen (Scotland), Cem (Turkey), Jari (Finland) and Jodi – circa 1988

For me, it was a chance to work abroad for a summer, and when I graduated in 1988, I had an internship lined up in Istanbul. Days after graduation, I got on a very long one-way plane trip to a place I had never been, not knowing the language or anyone in the country. The job was a complete and utter disaster (a long story that might be novel-worthy…), but I loved Turkey and ended up finding a different job at Istanbul Technical University that enabled me to stay in the country. During this time, I met some incredible people, people I am still friends with today, and my connection to the country, and its people, strengthened.

 

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Roommates: Eda (Turkey) and Jodi – circa 1989

I introduced Kirby to Turkey shortly after we started dating, and over the years, Kirby and I have spent several vacations here; we always dreamed of spending time here when we retired, too. So, when our good friend, Cassandra (who I met back in 1988 in Istanbul and with whom I also lived for a brief period of time) found this remote new development on the Aegean coast, we thought of it as kismet and jumped at the chance to own a small piece of one of our favorite places on earth.

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Roommates: Dick (Netherlands), Pal (Sweden) and Jodi – circa 1989

Today, as has been over my past 30 years of knowing this place, the economy and government are volatile, but no matter. In Turkey, you just have to roll with it and trust the people and its government will work itself out. As an example for the longevity of this volatility, my first day in June 1988 in Istanbul there was an attempted assignation on then Prime Minister Turgot Ozal, and ever since, Turkey has had its ups and downs politically and economically.

However, it’s a place where you can see two friends walking down the street, linking arms, one wearing a burka and one wearing a bikini. Modesty in dress and actions is a sign of respect as much as it is a part of the religious undertones of the country. It’s a nation of paradox and incongruity, and it fights for its democracy everyday as it has since Ataturk (known as the father of Turkey) led its revolution in the early 1920s, effectively ending the ruling of the Ottomans – emancipating women and introducing ideas of Western culture and lifestyles.

Turkey is not part of the EU, but it is a friend to the US and a key NATO ally. Unfortunately, relations are strained in these days, but we hope to return to friendlier times, and no matter our current politics or administration, the people of Turkey are extremely kind and warm and have welcomed us with open arms. Today, the Lira is volatile, and there was a recent shooting at the US Embassy, but for us, on our tiny peninsula, sitting between two seas, located on ancient archeological ground where civilizations have lived for thousands of years (since ~500 BC), we are relatively immune from all of that.

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Our neighborhood next to the Aegean

 

Kurban Bayram – An Important Holiday in Turkey

This week is the Kurban Bayram holiday – a 5 day holiday in Turkey where most businesses, all government offices and banks are closed. It also marks the first official day of travel to Mecca and can clog travel in and around the country. It’s an important holiday in Turkey as it follows the Islamic calendar (and therefore is a different date every year).

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Hanging at the beach before the big celebration

This year, it falls on 8/21-25 and is also known as the Feast of the Sacrifice. In biblical terms, it commemorates Abraham’s dedication to God when he was asked to sacrifice his son, Isaac, and at the last-minute, God (or an angel of God) spared his son and gave him a ram instead to sacrifice. In Islam, it’s the same story (as most religious stories are…): it commemorates Ibrahim’s (Abraham) willingness to sacrifice his son, Ishmael (Isaac), to show his faithfulness to Allah (God).

During the holiday, rams/sheep/goats are sacrificed and used as a large feast and family celebration where gifts are exchanged. As part of the holiday, a portion of the meat is donated to the poor. In more modern times, it’s also acceptable to donate money to the poor and skip the animal sacrifice part altogether. Like Thanksgiving in the USA, it’s an important charitable time of year where family and friends get together to celebrate and give thanks. And, like Christmas, it might be one of the few times a year that a non-practicing Muslim will go to a mosque to attend the morning prayer.

There are government dedicated areas where it’s allowed to conduct the sacrifices. We passed one of these yesterday in rural Datca where many animals were in a corral awaiting their grisly fate. Thankfully, we weren’t there long enough to see any action.

If you travel to Turkey or any Islamic country, you should always check their religious calendars and holidays as travel can be disrupted. However, it’s interesting to be here during these times as you learn something culturally relevant, too.

We attended a large neighborhood potluck last night celebrating as a community. Everyone brought something to share, and the wood fired oven on our property was fired up all day yesterday (for the first time!) to slowly roast the sheep and make fresh bread. Everyone wore white, and there was music, wine, some dancing and much discussion of the state of the neighborhood’s infrastructure. A fun night and great way to make new friends.

 

 

Living in Turkey During Hurricane Season

We’ve taken a break from blogging since we aren’t on Lodos right now, but we have received a lot of questions about where we are, what we are doing and when we’ll be back on the boat, or in the states, so I decided to take each question as a separate blog post – watch this space!

We sailed to San Carlos, Mexico in early/mid June and spent a couple of weeks getting the boat ready to be taken out of the water. We left Lodos in a ship yard there, “on the hard” (out of the water) because we needed to finish some work on the boat that we never got around to before leaving San Diego. We also had to redo work that was done improperly in San Diego – hopefully the last of the projects that all have had to be redone in the past 6 months+.

It’s hurricane season in Mexico. It officially starts in June and ends in November, but truly, the most dangerous time is August-September (when the water warms above 80+ degrees), so we knew we wanted to be out of there this season. We took the time to do some traveling this summer and see friends. We went to our cousin’s wedding in Dallas (beautiful!), and we stopped to see friends in London, Oxford, Paris and Amsterdam.

4 years ago, we bought a house in Turkey. It’s a tiny house (1 bed + 1 bath with a loft), in an “off the grid” community, in a remote new village on the Aegean Sea along the Datça peninsula. It has all the challenges of new (cheap) construction, plus layer in remote access, very little internet, spotty electricity (100% solar), and very rocky soil that we are trying to completely transform (sometimes through sheer will & grit alone).

All that said, the houses and community aren’t the reason we bought a place here. It’s the landscape and beauty that surrounds us. We are butted against mountains to the East that look something like Halfdome in Yosemite or Lake Tahoe in California and to the West, the shimmering blue of the Aegean – with the Greek Island of Kos facing directly in front of us. We are ~1 hour from the nearest city (However, there is a small village 20+ minutes from us.), and probably the only thing that keeps this place from major development is the winding, dirt-pitted road you must take through the olive and almond trees planted into the mountainsides. The food is amazing, and the cost of living is cheap – cheaper everyday as the Lira continues to fall…

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View from the beach – aka: “the office”

It’s the kind of place people want to go to write a book, paint, read, and escape.

The flora isn’t diverse, but it is lush. We are frequented by goats who local shepherds still graze and let roam freely. We have seen owls and wild boar, bats, grouse and deer. The night is pitch black, the stars bright, and the beach is pebbly (not sand), which I much prefer. It’s safe and quiet, and all of the neighbors know each other – we look after one another, share tea and treats and stories – the way it should be in a community.

Our languid days are filled with equal parts work (professional work: Jodi is consulting & Kirby is starting a new business), work on the house and yard as well as swimming, hiking, reading, cooking and sleeping. There is nothing to buy, nothing to schedule and not much to do.

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Sunsets from the back porch

Living in a developing country has its drawbacks of course, and we find it quite manic some days, but its lesson is to be open to what may come, be open to changing your plans, and realize that you have very little control over the outcomes of many things here – it’s a country and place that forces the zen out of you.

 

Leaving Lodos…& Mexico

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Lodos in Santa Rosalia Marina

As we get ready to leave Mexico and leave Lodos for the summer and hurricane season, it’s a bittersweet feeling. We are excited about the next months of adventures that await, but I know we’ll miss our daily life on the water.  In fact, we already do. It’s been great to leave from San Carlos, as it’s not a place we particularly like, so we aren’t sad to leave.

We once thought we’d spend one season in the Sea of Cortez and keep heading head south, but now, I’m really happy that we’ll be here for another year! I haven’t gotten enough of its beauty and rich rich wildlife.

I will especially miss:

  • Being at anchor reading, thinking and relaxing.
  • Seeing dolphins, whales, turtles and mobula rays almost daily.
  • Guacamole and churros.
  • The routine of living and working on the boat.
  • Sleeping 8 hours at a stretch – maybe for the first time in my life.
  • Playing games and splashing around in the clear blue sea.
  • The Mexican people & their generous, kind hospitality.

This ~5 months has raced by. We’ve learned so much, had so much fun, didn’t sink the boat, and we didn’t die. So, yeah, I guess it was a successful season. 😉

This week, we’re off to Dallas to celebrate a wedding, then onto London, Paris, Amsterdam and Turkey – adventures abound! Join us somewhere or consider joining us on Lodos when we get her back into the water in Mexico!

 

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J & K at Playa Algodones in the Sea of Cortez

 

Hurricane Prep: Sea of Cortez

It’s hard to believe we knew virtually nothing about this just a few months ago, and now I feel like we’ve sucked up every bit of knowledge from so many sources. There are a lot of resources out there, and a wide swath of passionate opinions that can make your head spin. Everyone has their own “must do’s”, and there is a wide range of prep taking place in the marina here in San Carlos.

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Susan & Dennis Ross at Marina Palmira in La Paz

First, thanks for Susan & Dennis Ross aboard s/v Two Can Play – they really made our brains swirl with information (and some panic) when they generously offered their time to teach a seminar in La Paz about Hurricane Planning back in April. One guy in their class said, “heck, I’m so freaked out, I think I’ll just go back to San Diego now!” <hahaha>

All joking aside, this is serious business. I’m sure we won’t do everything right, and in the event of a really bad storm, it might not even matter, but we’ll leave Lodos knowing we did all we could to ensure she is safe and secure.

 

We talked to dozens of people, read dozens of blog posts, looked at how people were prepping their boats around us, and have made multiple revisions to our list of “to do’s” before we head out in less than two weeks. We started a running list of everything we had to do to get the boat ready to haul out of the water next week, we got a storage unit for the season from the great team at Bahia Storage (Thanks again to Miguel for the truck and extra set of hands!), and we bought an inordinate amount of aluminum foil and car windshield reflective shields to cover the windows and portholes. The inside temp of the boat can easily be over 150 degrees here in summer! I use this digital laser thermometer to measure temps inside the boat – it’s a super cool and useful tool!

I even asked my mom what they do to prep their RV/mobile home prior to leaving the hot summers of Arizona, all of which is now incorporated into our list below.

The first hurricane of the season (ALETTA) has gone out to die in the Pacific, and it looks like there is one right behind it, which will be called BUD. It’s not likely to reach us here, but it may make landfall in Cabo San Lucas. We’ve been obsessively watching the weather and learned some new geeky weather jargon such as: “this system is now an invest 92E which has turned into a td3e”.  I’ve upped my weather game substantially and added the following sites to my obsession: two_pac_0d0

 

 

 

 

 

Passage Weather  https://www.passageweather.com/

Tropical Tidbits  https://www.tropicaltidbits.com/

National Hurricane Center (NOAA)  https://www.nhc.noaa.gov/

AreaTask
RIGGING:
Remove all sails (wash, dry, take down, fold)
store all running rigging
Use T-9 or Marlube on all tracks and roller furlers
secure mast boot from high winds
pull all halyards up into mast with leaders to base of mast
store excess halyards in bag at base of mast
center boom and lock down with line currently on stern ladder
cover furling and tracks w/ foil/towels
fold up/secure davits
EXTERIOR:
Remove dodger and bimini canvas
drain water tanks and add a little bleach
remove and store bbq - take to storage
remove and store life ring
prep scuba equipment - take tanks to storage
deflate dink and store w/ lines in storage
remove outboard and store (change oil?)
close all thru hulls after hauling (except bilge)
wash bottom (no pressure washer) and inspect bottom, paint
plug all thru hulls with cbronze or vinyl wool to disuade bugs
fill diesel tanks and add biocide
extra lines on solar panels
cockpit cleared of everything
winch handles stored below
empty cockpit bags
cover instruments w/ blanket/tie down
remove wind generator blades
inspect hull, paint/repair as needed
Tighten/adjust bimini rails to readjust location
cover all tracks & pulleys and winches
move all sails, canvas, etc to offsite storage
wash boat/clean outside of boat
cover flat surfaces with sunbrella fabric, weight down with chain
Mark with grease pencil fiberglass spots
INTERIOR:
pack for Turkey, organize clothes we are taking off the boat
cover all windows and hatches with reflective material
roll up and store all carpets in sheets, storage
store all cushions in master cabin
deploy roach traps
remove all perishables/donate
remove med kit with any perishable items (incl contact lenses)
Organize and clean out food storage, cover bags, double bag/box foods, remove cardboard/paper
leave buckets of water for humidity
lubricate hatch gaskets with silicone grease or other rubber safe lube
remove batteries from all handhelds/clocks
put mineral oil in heads to lube gaskets
put dryer sheets in all cabinets/drawyers
put essential oil on sponges for freshness
store bedding/vacuum pack
close/block seat cushion holes
cover woodwork with relfective material
donate canned food, etc
remove/store electronics/computers
remove $$ & take copy of vital paperwork
final clean of boat and launder all sheets & clothes to be left on the boat
fold up bed/store
move clothes from closet, vacuum pack clothes as necessary
wrap companion way door in reflective material
final run to storage, drop off key
clean out fridge/freezer
MECHANICAL:
prep air conditioner
pickle water maker
flush and fog outboard for storage
flush engine with fresh water and vinegar / check with yard on recco
disconnect propane/prep propane tanks
check propane tank guages
ELECTRICAL:
Unplug all network connections from devices on network
Remove power to devices
disconnect antenna leads
remove electronics where possible
ensure bilge pumps work with solar power
store electronics in oven?
put handhelds/smaller items into safe
MANAGEMENT:
give letter of approval for Alberto, Garth, Arturo to be on boat
develop quick checklist for Alberto to do weekly or monthly w/ pics
laminate note for back of boat of who to reach/how to reach
UPON RETURNING:
Change oil in all engines
clean boat
provision
replace zincs
reconnect/refill propane
change oil in engine & outboard
change oil in genny
remove all impellers, place in zip lock with silicone coating
Replace gaskets in toilets
Adjust bimini rails
Replace propane gauges in aft locker